I’m writing to ask for your support in ending daylight savings time in our state. The biannual time changes cause unnecessary disruptions and confusion for everyone.
Let’s simplify our lives and improve efficiency by abolishing daylight savings time. It’s a small change that will make a big difference for all of us.
I saw a shock/bungee scope cover on Insta or YT, and I decided I needed it. But, it wasn’t an ad, so I don’t know where to get it. I have calipers and a 3D printer so I figured it out.
This cover or cap can be adapted for any circular device. I can think of optic, red dot, and flashlight.
I tried modeling in TinkerCAD. It was functional but not adaptable. I tried Revit but it wasn’t going to be accessible. I bit the bullet and learned OpenSCAD. This allowed me to design the cover with variables in a format anyone can access, and natively supported on Thingiverse.
The main variable to adjust is scope_diameter. Size it slightly larger to fit easily. The cord will keep it from rattling.
For personal preference, scope_Height can be adjusted.
Depending on your shock cord and printer settings you might need to adjust paracord_diameter to get enough tolerance.
My typical path to solve a Revit issue is to describe my issue and search online. 9 times out of 10 that gives me the solution. Didn’t work this time. My Situation: My AutoCAD Revit 2021 model “A” has a linked Revit model “B”. Inside B is a linked IFC model “C”. In A I couldn’t see the content of C, and it was very important. I looked in all the normal places of visibility graphics/phase/etc. They key to the mystery was to go into Model B and set the IFC link Reference Type to “Attachment”
After a reload, this solved my issue.
I searched for “revit ifc model in linked model not showing” & “Revit Nested IFC Model Not Showing” but neither helped. Hopefully this helps someone.
Are you an Apple fan who has owned multiple iPads over the years? If so, you’ve probably noticed that the charging cables for these tablets have changed quite a bit since the first one was released back in 2010. In this article, we’ll take a look at the evolution of iPad charging cables and how they’ve improved over time.
When the original iPad was launched, it came with a proprietary charging cable that featured a 30-pin connector on one end and a USB connector on the other. This cable was specifically designed for use with the iPad and couldn’t be used with other devices. It was used to charge the iPad as well as transfer data between the device and a computer.
In 2012, Apple introduced the iPad mini, which featured a new type of connector called the lightning connector. This connector was smaller, faster, and more durable than the 30-pin connector, and it was reversible, meaning you could plug it into the iPad in either direction. The lightning connector quickly became the standard charging connector for all of Apple’s devices, including the iPhone and iPod.
Fast forward to 2017, and Apple released the iPad Pro, which featured a USB-C connector instead of the lightning connector. The USB-C connector is even smaller and faster than the lightning connector, and it can be used to charge the iPad Pro as well as transfer data and video to and from the device. It’s also compatible with other devices that have a USB-C port, such as laptops and monitors.
But let’s not forget about wireless charging options! In 2018, Apple released the AirPower charging mat, which allowed users to charge their iPad and other devices wirelessly by simply placing them on the mat. Unfortunately, the AirPower charging mat was eventually cancelled due to technical difficulties.
In conclusion, the charging cables for the Apple iPad have come a long way since the first one was released. From the 30-pin connector to the lightning connector to the USB-C connector, these cables have allowed for faster charging and data transfer speeds, as well as greater compatibility with other devices. Do you have a favorite charging cable or wireless charging method for your iPad? Let us know in the comments!
All the instructions I found online for how to find your Straight Talk Account Number are wrong. I have figured out the right way and am going to share it with you.
For my Bring Your Own Phone (BYOP) plan the account number is the IMEI number of the phone I have been using. I’m not sure how long it takes to switch over when you insert the SIM into the new phone.
I made a video demonstrating the process I use to make some special trading cards. Here is my written description for Highlight Cards. These are just cool enough to make the extra effort worth it.
You’re here. You probably have an 11th Gen Honda Civic and you want to run OpenPilot. Hopefully, shortly after I post this comma will make a Car Harness for this model and you’ll just buy that. Until then, hopefully I can help.
The first thing to do is open the trim at the camera and have a look at the existing connector. Here is what mine looks like.
Check out https://techinfo.honda.com/ for what the pin-outs align to. (Look at the wire color, not the terminal number.)
Look at your connector, the standard comma ai Bosch Harness, and the harness adapter. This is the jumping off point. Obviously the pin-outs are different, if for no other reason than 2022 Honda Sensing dropped the radar.
Your first question after reviewing your connector pin-out and the comma harness pin-out should be around the adapter board.
I used a continuity checker on the adapter I received and here is the pin-out. You might benefit from double checking the one you receive. Make modifications to my notes as required.
Now you should have all the information you need. If all of your hardware matches mine then my schematic should work.
Now how I did it. I ordered the Car Harness for Civic 2020 (Bosch). I thought I could easily remove the pins from the MX34 connector and arrange them as needed. This was not the case. It was hard. I bought this extraction tool set. Here is a diagram that may aide you.
I was finally able to get most of the pins out. Leave the brown, it doesn’t move. The other cable that I wasn’t able to move (yellow) was in a place that was going to have a cable in the end. For this instance, I swapped it on the harness side with the correct cable. I labeled both sides of each cable with tape so I could identify them later.
If you get stuck there is another option. You can cut off the Bosh connector and ordered a new connector and terminals. (I think you could order a “Development vehicle” harness but I’m not sure what you get. Let me know if you go this route.)
You shouldn’t need the Molex connector or terminals. However, if you’re already paying for shipping so spend the $1.53 for a little insurance.
On the Molex connector, gently lift the tabs and remove the pins. Then, reattach according to the 2022 schematic.
On the MX34 connector, lift the retainer, remove each cable (except brown or any other you determine remains). Insert into the MX34 connector according to the 2022 schematic, lower the retainer.
That’s it! You are now set up to install your Comma.
If you’re reading this you probably already know what the Backson is. If so, skip ahead, if not read on. The Backson is a character from the Winne the Pooh 2011 movie. Watch this quick clip of Owl describing/making up the Backson.
Spoiler alert: In the end we find out the Backson is ‘real’ and a huge sweet heart.
With that out of the way, my 6 year old daughter really loves Winnie the Pooh & plush toys. We call them Stuffies. She’s got her Winnie. She’s got her Piglet. She’s got her Eeyore. She would like a whole set, and maybe someday she will have it.
One character that isn’t commercially available is the Backson. I thought I would try my hand at making a custom version.
I examined my reference material and prepared a pattern that looked about right.
One thing I didn’t account for in the pattern is how much the fleece I bought stretches in one direction. I assumed there would be stretch but, I thought it would be a little more all direction and not as stretchy. The actual combination was different than I expected. In the end, this didn’t ruin the project. I will be more aware next time.
I did a combination of machine and hand sewing. Both have their benefits and drawbacks.
Overall, I’m happy with the result and my daughter loves it. I hope this sparks some creativity with you. Please share your creations!
I bet you tried searching for a Google Sheets custom function that returns the URL or Link from a rich text cell. The top search result looks like it works. However it requires the parent cell to use =hyperlink(). This won’t work for us. If you push a little deeper, you’ll find user Will in RVA post a solution. This works but is cumbersome because it requires you to have a helper cell.
I took the best of both worlds and made a function that does what you really want it to do. It extracts the link URL directly from a rich text cell in Google Sheets. Go to Tools > Script editor and copy this script. Save and Enjoy!
/**
* Returns the URL from a rich text cell.
* @param {A1} reference Cell reference
* @customfunction
*/
function linkyURL(reference){
var sheet = SpreadsheetApp.getActiveSheet();
var formula = SpreadsheetApp.getActiveRange().getFormula();
var args = formula.match(/=\w+\((.*)\)/i);
try {
var range = sheet.getRange(args[1]);
}
catch(e) {
throw new Error(args[1] + ' is not a valid range');
}
var cell = range;
var cellValue = cell.getRichTextValue();
var cellText = cell.getValue();
var theThing = cellValue.getLinkUrl();
if (theThing == null){
return cellText;
} else {
return theThing;
}
}
If this helps you out please share and let me know.
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